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Nekresi Monastery Nekresi monastery is worth a visit for many reasons. Firstly, Nekresi was a real town as early as the 2nd century BC, and ongoing archaeological research brings new interesting artefacts to light every year. Secondly, it is home to one of the oldest churches in Georgia, dating back to the 4th century. Thirdly, Nekresi was the only bishopric in Georgia that included parts of Muslim Dagestan in the North Caucasus. Fourth, the location of the monastery and the views from it are simply phenomenal, And fifthly, Nekresi is the only place in Georgia, and probably the whole Christian world, where pigs are sacrificed to the church instead of the usual roosters or lambs. If you are in Kakheti, you will not regret a detour to Nekresi, but you should allow at least an hour and a half for the visit. It is good to know that you are not allowed to drive to the monastery. You can either take the minibus from the monastery, which is usually parked below the monastery (the fare is the equivalent of 50 cents), or walk up the steep path for about 20 minutes. History of Nekresi In the 2nd century BC, the King of Eastern Georgia, Parnadschom of the Parnavaziani dynasty, founded a city with a fire temple in Nekresi, which existed until the Persian invasion in the 6th century AD. Even the Fire Temple, called the "Great Square" of Nekresi, can be easily seen from the monastery far down in the valley. After the Christianisation of Georgia, a church was built above the town of Nekresi in the 4th century, which is still one of the oldest preserved churches in Georgia. In the 6th century, one of the 13 Syrian monks, Abibos Nekreseli, founded the monastery and bishopric of Nekresi and expanded it considerably over time. The monastery also played an important role in the conversion of the mountain people of the eastern Caucasus, but soon Nekresi became important not only religiously but also culturally. It became a centre of learning, where many books were written and manuscripts copied. Several monks of the monastery were also hagiographers. Nekresi, like most monasteries in Georgia, has shared the painful fate of the country and has often been the target of attacks, but monastic life was almost never abandoned in Nekresi. It was only during the Soviet era that the monks were forced to leave, but Nekresi was reopened in 1990 and since then several monks have lived here permanently, conducting religious services and at the same time taking care of the preservation and restoration of the monastery complex. Nekresi Complex 1. Small Basilica from the 4th century Small basilica 4th century The small basilica (4.5 x 3.8 metres) was built of river stones in the second half of the 4th century. The church stands on a cellar that was used as a crypt (space under the altar, usually used for saints' graves or relics). However, the small chapel of Nekresi is only partially basilical. The central nave is considerably higher than the other two, and there are horseshoe openings on the sides, even on the eastern side of the church. A crypt and such openings, especially on the eastern side of the altar, are not found in later Georgian churches. Several centuries passed after the construction of the Nekresi Basilica before one of the first classical basilicas in Georgia was built here. Main Church of Nekresi Monastery The main church of the monastery is a central three-nave basilica dating from the 7th century. This century is considered the first high point in the architecture of Georgian sacred buildings. The Dzvari Church in Mtskheta, the Sioni Church in Ateni and other outstanding works of architecture were built during this period. The architecture of the Nekresi Basilica is very different from other contemporary buildings. Each nave of the church is separated from the other by a wall, creating three separate churches within the basilica, each with its own altar. The reason for this interior design was the need to hold several services at the same time, which usually required a separate altar for each. This special basilica in Nekresi, with three separate churches inside, is dedicated to the Mother of God and was almost completely frescoed in the 16th century. The western side depicts the founders of the church, King Levan I of Kakheti and his wife Tinatin. Although other churches were later built in the monastery, the three-church basilica has remained the main church of the monastery. The Dome Church The domed church was built in the 9th century from river stone, as were all the other buildings in the monastery. The church has an unusual shape: although it has a dome, its structure is very similar to the three-nave main church of the monastery. One gets the impression that the main room is under the dome and that other parts of the church were added later. The unlit northern part of the church is interesting. According to most scholars, this must have been the room where the bodies of deceased monks were kept before burial. Two-storey house, wine cellar, four-storey tower and other monuments The archbishop's house was built in the 9th century. Several niches and large fireplaces have been preserved from this period. On the first floor there is an octagonal column that supports the main beams of the second floor. Further east, in the extension of the first floor, there is a single-storey building in which a wine cellar was built in the 16th century. Behind the wine cellar is a two-storey building with several service rooms and cells for the monks. Above the wine cellar is the four-storey residential and defence tower of Nekresi from the 16th century. The tower is accessible from the wine cellar. The building with arched openings on the north-east side of the domed church is interesting. According to scholars, this was the refectory from the 16th to the 18th century. The stone wall around the monastery also dates from the 16th to 18th centuries. At the same time (16th-18th centuries), another chapel was added to the monastery in the form of a basilica. Interesting facts The founder of the monastery, Archbishop Abibos Nekreseli, was stoned to death by Persian Zoroastrians in the 6th century for extinguishing the fire in the temple with water to show the fire worshippers that there were more powerful forces in the universe than fire. Legend of why pigs are sacrificed at Nekresi The monastery of Nekresi was besieged by Muslim irregulars from Dagestan, and after several days of siege, the monks came up with a clever idea. They slaughtered pigs and threw the meat down with the pig's blood. The besiegers could not stand the sight and smell of these slaughtered "unclean" animals and fled. Since then, pigs have been sacrificed at Nekresi Monastery alongside the usual roosters or lambs. |
