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Abanotubani Abanotubani (sulphur baths district) is the heart of the capital, because this is where the history of Tbilisi as the capital of Georgia begins. History of Abanotubani Legend has it that King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi, built the city's first sulphur baths, but archaeological excavations have revealed that the first baths in Tbilisi date back to the first century BC. This is the time when part of Georgia was under Roman occupation. The Arab geographer and writer Ibn Hauqal from the X. He wrote that there were baths in Tbilisi similar to those in Tiberias, whose water boiled without fire. In the XIII century there were 65 baths in Abanotubani. Detailed information about the sulphur baths was recorded by the Venetian merchant Marco Polo, the Russian traveller Vasil Gagara and the Georgian historian, cartographer and geographer Vakhushti Bagrationi. Until the invasion of the Persian Shah Agha Mohammed Khan in 1795, the baths served the inhabitants and guests of Tbilisi faithfully. Unfortunately, hardly anything remained of the baths after the Persian campaign, but soon, before the end of the XVIII century, most of the sulphur baths were destroyed. Most of the sulphur baths were rebuilt, largely with the help of the Orbeliani family. Abanotubani in everyday life The sulphur baths were not just a bathhouse, but much more for the inhabitants of the capital and their guests. People could dine, celebrate and even spend the night at the baths. Merchants or farmers who did not want to spend a lot of money on an overnight stay in the caravanserai would often leave their goods in safe hands and spend the night in the baths themselves. In Tbilisi, it was very common to go to the baths after a good party (supra in Georgian) and continue celebrating in a cosy atmosphere, drinking tea or having a full-body massage. In other words, the baths were a kind of medieval spa centre in Tbilisi. The sulphur baths were a special place for women. They used the baths as a place to go out and show off their latest clothes and jewellery. Here the ladies could drink tea, eat and gossip all day long. The sulphur bath was also the place where future mothers-in-law or matchmakers chose their wives. Special kind of masseur in Abanotubani Meqise (masseur) played a very special role in Abanotubani. He would scrub the clients thoroughly with a special flannel glove (qisa in Georgian - hence the name Meqise, which means: the one who uses Qisa for his work). The Meqise then massaged his clients with his hands and feet, from head to toe. After visiting the baths and having a massage at the Meqise, the Russian writer Alexander Pushkin wrote that he felt like a newborn child. The French writer Alexander Dumas was also fascinated by the baths and wrote that he had never experienced anything like it in the world and that some Meqises should be brought from Tbilisi to Paris. The Russian writer Leo Tolstoy claimed that in the sulphur baths of Tbilisi one sometimes felt like the Roman general Pompey and sometimes like the Roman general Lucullus (Lucullus became famous above all for his wealth and his grandiose banquets). Architecture of Abanotubani In the later Middle Ages, Georgia was largely under Persian occupation and the Persian influence can still be seen in many of the architectural buildings, especially in Abanotubani. Half of the baths were built underground, so that the hot sulphur water from underground could be brought to the baths in its natural flow direction through ceramic pipes, without the need for pumps. The drainage channels in the baths are also underground. Above ground, the spherical roofs can be seen, with an opening in the centre of the dome for light and ventilation. The bathrooms are built of brick and river stone. The floors are mostly marble and the walls are whitewashed, often with mosaic tiles. Some bathrooms also have murals. The bathrooms mainly consist of 2 rooms - the changing room (anteroom) and the bathroom. The changing room used to have carpets on the floor, comfortable seats with cushions and a table. On the table there would be a jug of water, glasses and an oil lamp. In the bath there was a basin of hot sulphur water and a massage table. How Abanotubani in Tbilisi looks like today? The architecture of the baths has not changed, they are still semi-underground with an open dome in the middle. The rooms usually consist of 2, sometimes 3 sections. The vestibule, the bath and an additional sauna. In the anteroom there is a comfortable sofa with 2 armchairs, a table and a small shelf, in the second room (bath) there is a small pool with hot sulphur water, a shower and a massage table. Water in the sulphur bath The sulphur water in the bath is about 38 degrees and smells like rotten eggs (sulphur itself is odourless, but when it combines with hydrogen it produces hydrogen sulphide - and that smells like rotten eggs). Sulphur water is naturally good for the skin and joints and is very relaxing. You should sit in the sulphur pool for 15 to 20 minutes, then take a break of about 10 minutes and rest well wrapped up in a bathrobe, repeating the process a maximum of 2 to 3 times. Leaving the sulphur water on the skin for a long time is good for the skin, but if you want to get rid of the smell, you can take a hot shower afterwards. Location, opening times, prices and tips The baths are located in the Abanotubani (sulphur baths district) and most are open until 1am. The baths are very busy in the summer and you should book in advance. As there is a great deal of variation between the baths, it is advisable to view the rooms before making a reservation. The rooms are for 2 to 8 people and if you are travelling in a small group, you can book a room together. Bathrooms in Abanotubani are booked separately and no strangers are allowed in, regardless of the size of the room. Bathrooms are usually rented by the hour and prices in Abanotubani range from 40 to 200 laris (100 euros is about 280 Georgian laris). Although you will be given a towel and flip-flops in the bathroom, you should at least bring your own flip-flops for hygienic reasons. Massage in Abanotubani is not included in price, but if you order one, you won't get the classic version, but a full body wash with a very special sponge. The last public bath (Orbelianis Bad or Chreli Abano) was rebuilt in 2019 and divided into private rooms. Since then, there are no more public sulphur baths in Abanotubani. Which bath you take is a matter of price, but we recommend bath number 5 and the Royal Bath next door, both of which have several private rooms of varying sizes and facilities. On following trip, you will visit Abanotubani |
